Beppu Onsen Guide: Japan's Hot Spring Capital — Hells, Baths & Trips

Why Beppu Is Japan's Hot Spring Capital

Beppu (別府) sits on the northeast coast of Kyushu in Oita Prefecture, and it produces more hot spring water than any other city in Japan. According to Navitime Japan Travel, Beppu Onsenkyo boasts some of the largest number of source springs and greatest volume of water flow in the country — second only to Yellowstone globally. More than 4 million visitors come each year to soak, sightsee, and eat food literally cooked by geothermal steam.

What makes Beppu different from Hakone or other well-known onsen towns is scale and variety. The city contains eight distinct onsen districts, collectively known as Beppu Hatto (別府八湯), each with different mineral compositions, temperatures, and atmospheres. Some are urban bathhouses steps from the train station. Others are tucked into mountain valleys where steam rises from the streets. And then there are the Jigoku — the "hells" — geothermal pools too hot for bathing that exist purely as spectacles.

This guide covers the big picture: what to see, where to soak, and how to plan your time. For deeper coverage, follow the links to our detailed spoke guides below.

Jigoku Hells or Onsen Baths: Understanding the Difference

First-time visitors often confuse Beppu's two main attractions, so this distinction matters:

	Jigoku Hells	Onsen Baths
Purpose	Sightseeing — look, photograph, don't touch	Bathing — get in and soak
Location	Mostly Kannawa district	All eight Hatto districts
Cost	¥400–500 per hell (~$3); combo ~¥2,000 (~$13)	¥100–500 per public bath (~$1–3)
Time	2–3 hours for main cluster	30–60 min per bath
What you see	Boiling pools, colored water, mud pots, steam vents	Traditional bathhouses, outdoor rotenburo, sand baths

The Jigoku Meguri (地獄めぐり) — the hell tour — is a sightseeing circuit through geothermal springs that reach temperatures far too high for human contact. You walk, look, and move on. Onsen bathing happens elsewhere, in public bathhouses and ryokan across the city's eight districts. You can do both in a single day, but they are separate activities in separate locations.

The Jigoku Hell Tour: What to See

The Kannawa Cluster: Five Hells in Walking Distance

Five of Beppu's most famous hells are clustered together in the Kannawa district, walkable within 30 minutes of each other. Umi Jigoku (海地獄), or Sea Hell, is the most iconic — a cobalt-blue pool of scalding water surrounded by tropical gardens. According to Where and Wander, it is the single most recommended hell if you only have time for one.

The other four in the cluster include Oniishibozu Jigoku (mud bubbling like a monk's shaved head), Kamado Jigoku (cooking pot hell with multiple colored pools), Oniyama Jigoku (home to crocodiles heated by spring water), and Shiraike Jigoku (white pond hell). Together, they take 2–3 hours at a comfortable pace.

According to the Beppu Area Recreation Map, individual hell admission is ¥400–500 (~$3), with combo tickets available for approximately ¥2,000 (~$13) covering multiple hells. Hours are typically 8:00–17:00. No reservation required.

Chinoike and Tatsumaki: The Separated Hells

Two additional hells — Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell, a red-tinted iron-rich pool) and Tatsumaki Jigoku (Spout Hell, a geyser that erupts at regular intervals) — are located several kilometers from the main cluster. You will need a bus or taxi to reach them. Many visitors on community forums recommend including them only if you have a full day dedicated to the hells, as the main Kannawa cluster delivers the strongest impression in the shortest time.

Beppu Hatto: Eight Onsen Districts at a Glance

According to the Beppu Trip pamphlet, Beppu Hatto comprises eight hot spring areas: Beppu Onsen, Hamawaki Onsen, Kankaiji Onsen, Horita Onsen, Myoban Onsen, Kannawa Onsen, Shibaseki Onsen, and Kamegawa Onsen. Each has different water qualities and character.

For a detailed guide to Beppu's onsen districts and bathing etiquette, see our dedicated guide. For the best public baths and hidden gems in Beppu, see our bath recommendations. Below is a quick orientation.

Kannawa: Hells, Ryokan, and Steam Cooking

Kannawa (鉄輪) is where the Jigoku hells are and where steam literally rises from the streets. It is the most atmospheric of the eight districts and the best base for first-time visitors who want both sightseeing and bathing in one area. Traditional ryokan line the narrow streets, and several offer jigoku-mushi — food steamed in geothermal vents at communal cooking stations.

Many visitors on Where and Wander recommend staying in Kannawa over central Beppu if your priority is the hell tour and ryokan atmosphere.

Beppu Onsen and Hamawaki: Central City Baths

Beppu Onsen is the district immediately around Beppu Station — convenient, urban, and easy to access on foot. Hamawaki Onsen is the neighboring seaside district. Together, they offer the most accessible bathing options for travelers staying in central hotels. The trade-off is less atmosphere compared to Kannawa, but more restaurants, shopping, and transport connections.

Myoban and the Outer Districts

Myoban Onsen sits in the hills above Beppu, known for iron-rich waters and proximity to hiking areas around Mount Tsurumi. The remaining districts — Kankaiji, Horita, Shibaseki, and Kamegawa — are less visited by tourists but offer authentic local bathhouse experiences. These outer districts reward travelers willing to explore beyond the main two areas.

Planning Your Beppu Visit: Sightseeing, Soaking, or Both

Half-Day: Hells Only

If you are passing through Beppu on a Kyushu itinerary, the Kannawa hell cluster fits into a half day. Take the bus from Beppu Station to Kannawa (30–40 minutes), walk the five hells (2–3 hours), and return. Skip the separated hells (Chinoike and Tatsumaki) to keep it tight.

Full Day: Hells and Bathing

A full day lets you tour the Kannawa hells in the morning, have a jigoku-mushi steam-cooked lunch, then walk to a Kannawa public bath for afternoon soaking. Alternatively, return to central Beppu for a different district's baths in the evening.

Two Days: The Complete Experience

Two days is ideal. Day one for the hell tour (including the separated hells) and Kannawa bathing. Day two for exploring other districts — Myoban for mountain onsen, Hamawaki for seaside baths, or a deep dive into the public bathhouse culture across multiple neighborhoods.

For help planning Beppu into a Kyushu itinerary, see our trip planning guide.

Getting to Beppu

Route	Duration	Cost	Notes
Oita Station → Beppu Station (JR)	10–15 min	~¥280 (~$2)	Frequent local trains
Fukuoka (Hakata) → Beppu (JR Limited Express Sonic)	~2 hours	~¥6,000 (~$40)	Direct, scenic coastal route
Beppu Station → Kannawa (Kamenoi Bus)	30–40 min	~¥350 (~$2)	Bus to Kannawa Onsen or Umijigoku-mae

Beppu Station is the central hub. From there, Kamenoi Bus routes connect to Kannawa (for the hells), Myoban (for mountain baths), and other districts. A rental car is useful for reaching the outer districts but unnecessary for the main attractions.

Prices shown are from 2024–2025 sources. Check JR Kyushu and Kamenoi Bus for current fares and schedules.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to visit the Beppu hells?

Individual hells cost ¥400–500 (~$3) each. A combo ticket covering multiple hells runs approximately ¥2,000 (~$13). Public onsen baths across the city are separate and generally cost ¥100–500 (~$1–3) per bath. Hours are typically 8:00–17:00 for the hells; no reservation needed.

Can I visit the Jigoku hells and bathe in onsen in one day?

Yes. The Kannawa cluster of five hells takes 2–3 hours in the morning. Afterward, you can walk to nearby public baths in the Kannawa district for soaking. A full day comfortably covers the hell tour, a steam-cooked lunch, and multiple baths.

How do I get to Beppu from major cities?

From Oita Station, JR trains reach Beppu in 10–15 minutes. From Fukuoka's Hakata Station, the JR Limited Express Sonic takes approximately 2 hours. The Jigoku hells in Kannawa are a further 30–40 minutes by bus from Beppu Station.

Which area should I stay in: central Beppu or Kannawa?

Kannawa for ryokan atmosphere, proximity to the hells, and steam cooking experiences. Central Beppu near the station for convenience, restaurants, and quick access to multiple onsen districts. First-time visitors focused on the hell tour should consider Kannawa; those using Beppu as a Kyushu transit point may prefer central.

Is Beppu worth visiting if I've already been to Hakone?

Yes. Beppu has Japan's largest volume of hot spring water and eight distinct bathing districts — far more variety than Hakone. The Jigoku hells are a geothermal spectacle with no equivalent elsewhere in Japan. The atmosphere is more local and less commercialized than Hakone's tourist-oriented ryokan zone.