Shikoku Island Guide: Why Kagawa Is the Best Starting Point

What Is Shikoku and Why Visit

Shikoku (四国) is Japan's smallest and least-visited main island — and that is precisely its appeal. While Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka absorb the majority of international visitors, Shikoku sits quietly across the Seto Inland Sea with ancient onsen, contemporary art islands, vine suspension bridges over mountain gorges, and the kind of rural Japan that has largely disappeared from Honshu's tourist corridors.

The island consists of four prefectures — Kagawa, Tokushima, Ehime, and Kochi — each with a distinct character and geography. Kagawa anchors the north with udon culture and art islands. Tokushima guards the east with the remote Iya Valley. Ehime dominates the west with Matsuyama Castle and Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's oldest hot springs. Kochi stretches along the southern Pacific coast with wild rivers and surf.

Shikoku is also home to the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a 1,200-kilometer spiritual walking route that circles the entire island — Japan's most famous pilgrimage outside of the Kumano Kodo. Modern visitors often complete sections by train or bus.

For travelers based in the Kansai region, Shikoku is surprisingly accessible — about 2.5 hours from Osaka. For a broader look at destinations in the entry prefecture, see our Kagawa city guides.

The Four Prefectures at a Glance

Prefecture	Direction	Key Attractions	Best For
Kagawa (香川県)	North	Udon noodles, Naoshima art islands, Ritsurin Garden	Art lovers, foodies, easy access
Tokushima (徳島県)	East	Iya Valley gorges, Awa Odori festival	Adventure seekers, festival goers
Ehime (愛媛県)	West	Matsuyama Castle, Dogo Onsen	History buffs, onsen lovers
Kochi (高知県)	South	Shimanto River, Pacific surf, fresh seafood	Nature lovers, outdoor enthusiasts

Kagawa: Udon, Art Islands, and Ritsurin Garden

Kagawa is the smallest prefecture in Japan but packs an outsized cultural punch. Sanuki udon — thick, chewy noodles served at no-frills roadside shops for ¥300-500 per bowl — is a genuine food pilgrimage destination. The Seto Inland Sea art islands (Naoshima, Teshima, Shodoshima) have made Kagawa an international contemporary art destination. Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu is one of Japan's finest landscape gardens.

For a deeper look, see our Naoshima art island guide and Shodoshima olive island guide.

Tokushima: Iya Valley and Awa Odori

Tokushima's headline attraction is the Iya Valley (祖谷) — a remote mountain gorge accessible by car or infrequent bus, featuring the vine suspension bridge Iya Kazurabashi (祖谷のかずら橋). The bridge sways as you cross over a deep gorge, and the surrounding mountains feel genuinely wild.

The Awa Odori dance festival (August 12-15) is one of Japan's largest festivals, filling Tokushima City's streets with hundreds of thousands of dancers and spectators. If your timing aligns, it is one of Japan's most energetic cultural experiences.

Ehime: Matsuyama Castle and Dogo Onsen

Matsuyama is Shikoku's largest city and home to two landmarks: Matsuyama Castle, one of Japan's 12 original castle towers, and Dogo Onsen (道後温泉), widely cited as Japan's oldest hot spring and a reported inspiration for the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away.

Dogo Onsen's main bathhouse has been under renovation but remains partially accessible. The town's narrow lanes are lined with ryokan, souvenir shops, and public baths.

Kochi: Shimanto River and Pacific Coast

Kochi Prefecture faces the Pacific Ocean and feels markedly different from the other three prefectures. The Shimanto River is called Japan's last clear stream — kayaking and river walks are the main draws. The coastline attracts surfers, and Kochi City's Sunday Market is one of Japan's longest-running open-air markets.

Kochi is the most remote of the four prefectures and requires more travel time. A rental car is strongly recommended here.

Why Kagawa and Takamatsu Make the Best Entry Point

Takamatsu (高松), Kagawa's capital, is the most practical starting point for Shikoku for three reasons:

1. Best rail access: The JR Marine Liner runs from Okayama Station to Takamatsu Station across the Seto Ohashi Bridge (瀬戸大橋) in approximately 55 minutes, costing ¥1,920 (~$13) for an unreserved seat according to the JR Shikoku official site. Okayama is on the Sanyo Shinkansen, making Takamatsu about 2.5 hours from Osaka and 4.5 hours from Tokyo.

2. Art island ferries: Takamatsu Port operates direct ferries to Naoshima (approximately 25 minutes, ¥520 one way according to the Takamatsu Port ferry site), Teshima, and Shodoshima. No other Shikoku city offers this level of island access.

3. Self-contained base: Takamatsu has udon restaurants, Ritsurin Garden, good hotels, and walkable streets — enough to fill 2-3 days before heading elsewhere on the island.

For a detailed guide to the city itself, see our Takamatsu city guide. For transport logistics, see our Takamatsu as Shikoku's gateway.

Getting to Shikoku from Tokyo and Osaka

Shinkansen via Okayama to Takamatsu

The standard route to Shikoku:

Route	Train	Time	Cost
Tokyo → Okayama	Nozomi Shinkansen	~3.5 hours	~¥17,000 (~$113)
Osaka → Okayama	Nozomi Shinkansen	~1 hour	~¥5,500 (~$37)
Okayama → Takamatsu	JR Marine Liner	~55 min	¥1,920 (~$13)

The JR Marine Liner crosses the Seto Ohashi Bridge, a 13-bridge network linking Honshu to Shikoku. Unreserved seats are available — no reservation needed for most departures. The route is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass.

Other Entry Points

Flights connect Tokyo to Takamatsu, Matsuyama, and Kochi airports. Matsuyama is an alternative entry if Dogo Onsen is your primary destination. Highway buses from Osaka and Kobe also reach Takamatsu in approximately 3-4 hours at lower cost than the train.

For most travelers, the Okayama-to-Takamatsu rail route is the simplest and most flexible option, especially with a JR Pass.

How to Get Between Shikoku's Prefectures

Once on Shikoku, the JR network connects the main cities:

Route	Time	Notes
Takamatsu → Tokushima	~1.5 hours	JR Tokushima Line
Takamatsu → Matsuyama	~2.5 hours	JR Yosan Line limited express
Matsuyama → Kochi	~3 hours	JR limited express via Kubokawa
Takamatsu → Kochi	~2.5 hours	JR limited express

Train frequency is lower than on Honshu — expect hourly or less on main routes and significantly less on branch lines. The JR Shikoku Rail Pass covers all JR trains on the island and is worth considering for multi-prefecture trips. Check the JR Shikoku site for current pass options and pricing.

For connections between Kagawa and the other prefectures, see our Kagawa-Shikoku connections guide.

A rental car is strongly recommended for the Iya Valley (Tokushima), rural Kochi, and anywhere off the main JR lines. Public transport exists but runs infrequently in rural areas.

Planning Your Shikoku Trip: Days, Seasons, and Transport

How many days:

• 2 days: Takamatsu + Naoshima day trip (focused Kagawa visit)
• 3-4 days: Kagawa + one other prefecture (Ehime is the easiest to combine)
• 7-10 days: All four prefectures at a comfortable pace

Best seasons:

• Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms at Ritsurin Garden (late March), mild weather across the island
• Summer (June-August): Awa Odori festival in Tokushima (August 12-15), beach season in Kochi
• Autumn (October-November): Foliage in the Iya Valley, comfortable temperatures
• Winter (December-February): Quiet and uncrowded, Dogo Onsen at its most atmospheric

Transport strategy:

• Kagawa and the Takamatsu-Matsuyama corridor: trains and ferries suffice
• Iya Valley, Shimanto River, rural Kochi: rent a car
• Between prefectures: JR limited express trains (JR Shikoku Pass recommended)

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Shikoku from Tokyo or Osaka?

Take the Shinkansen to Okayama (Tokyo: approximately 3.5 hours, Osaka: approximately 1 hour), then transfer to the JR Marine Liner to Takamatsu (55 minutes, ¥1,920). Total travel time from Osaka is about 2.5 hours. No Shinkansen line directly enters Shikoku — Okayama is the gateway.

How many days do I need for Shikoku?

Two days covers Takamatsu and a Naoshima day trip. Three to four days lets you add Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen or the Iya Valley. Seven to ten days allows a comfortable circuit of all four prefectures. A focused visit to one or two prefectures is more rewarding than rushing through all four.

Which Shikoku prefecture should I visit first?

Kagawa, entering via Takamatsu. It has the easiest access from Honshu (JR Marine Liner from Okayama), direct ferries to art islands like Naoshima and Shodoshima, excellent udon dining, and Ritsurin Garden. Use Takamatsu as your base for the first few days.

Do I need a car to travel around Shikoku?

For Kagawa and the Takamatsu-Matsuyama JR corridor, trains and ferries are sufficient. For the Iya Valley in Tokushima, the Shimanto River area in Kochi, and rural destinations off the main rail lines, a rental car is strongly recommended — public transport in these areas runs infrequently.

What is the best season to visit Shikoku?

Spring (March-May) offers cherry blossoms at Ritsurin Garden and comfortable weather across the island. Summer features the Awa Odori festival in Tokushima (August 12-15). Autumn (October-November) brings foliage to the Iya Valley. Winter is quiet and uncrowded, with Dogo Onsen ideal year-round.