Iwaso Ryokan Miyajima: A Review of the Island's Oldest Inn

Why Iwaso: Miyajima's Oldest Ryokan Since 1854

Iwaso (岩惣) has stood at the entrance to Momijidani Park on Miyajima Island since 1854. According to the Iwaso official site, the ryokan has hosted notable figures including the novelist Natsume Soseki and Admiral Yamamoto Isoroku — it is not simply old, but historically significant in a way that few ryokan in Japan can claim.

The location is the first thing that strikes you. Iwaso sits where the Momijidani River flows through a grove of over a thousand maple trees, with rooms overlooking a traditional garden and the sound of running water. In autumn, the surrounding maples turn the valley red and gold — the word momijidani literally means "maple valley."

But Iwaso's real appeal for international visitors is simpler: it is the best way to experience Miyajima after the crowds leave. The last ferry departs around 9-10 PM, and after that the island transforms. Deer roam empty streets, Itsukushima Shrine glows under spotlights, and the only sounds are water and wind. Staying at Iwaso buys you this quiet version of one of Japan's most iconic sites.

For a broader comparison of ryokan options on the island, see our Hiroshima ryokan guide.

Room Types: Historic Main Building, Hanare, and Annex

Historic Main Building Rooms

The main building (本館) dates to the original structure and its early expansions. Rooms are traditional tatami with shoji screens, futon bedding, and views of the garden and river. These are the most affordable rooms — starting from approximately ¥50,000 (~$333) per person with dinner and breakfast — and the most authentically "old Japan" in character.

The trade-off: rooms are smaller than modern standards, walls are thin (traditional construction), and bathrooms are shared or basic. You are paying for atmosphere and history, not modern luxury.

Hanare (Detached Cottages)

The hanare (離れ) are Iwaso's premium offering — detached private cottages dating from the Taisho and Showa eras with their own enclosed gardens. According to travel reviews, these rooms offer complete privacy with shoji screens opening to private garden spaces, the sound of the Momijidani stream, and no neighboring rooms visible.

Hanare rooms command the highest rates — up to ¥120,000 (~$800) per person with meals — and book out months ahead during autumn foliage season. If budget allows, this is the definitive Iwaso experience. For detailed booking logistics, see our Iwaso booking guide and room details.

Newer Annex Rooms

The newer annex building offers rooms with modern amenities including private baths. These rooms have the Iwaso location advantage but less historic character — more hotel-like than ryokan-like. Useful for travelers who want the Miyajima overnight experience with modern comfort, but not why most guests choose Iwaso.

Kaiseki Dining and Miyajima Oysters

Dinner at Iwaso is a multi-course kaiseki (会席料理) experience served in your room between 19:00 and 21:00. The menu changes seasonally and features hyper-local ingredients: Miyajima oysters from the Seto Inland Sea, locally caught fish, mountain vegetables from the island's slopes, and Hiroshima wagyu beef.

Miyajima oysters are the star — larger and richer than the oysters sold at the island's grilled street stalls, prepared here in more refined styles: vinegar-dressed, steamed, or as part of a hot pot course.

Breakfast is a Japanese multi-dish spread served in the dining room. Reviewers consistently rate both meals highly, noting that the quality justifies the premium — this is one area where Iwaso does not disappoint.

The Garden, Onsen, and Nighttime Island Experience

Momijidani Garden and River Views

Iwaso's garden is an extension of Momijidani Park itself. The ryokan sits where the park begins, and the boundary between the two is intentionally blurred — stone paths, moss-covered rocks, and the Momijidani River flowing through both. In autumn (peaking in mid-November), the view from garden-facing rooms is one of the most photographed scenes on the island.

Radon Onsen Baths

According to the official site, Iwaso has natural source-flow radon hot spring baths (源泉かけ流し). The communal baths include indoor and outdoor options, separated by gender. The mineral-rich water is said to ease muscle fatigue — practical after a day hiking Mt. Misen.

Miyajima After Dark

This is what separates an Iwaso stay from a day trip. After the last ferry, Miyajima becomes a different place: shrine lanterns glow against the water, deer settle on the empty streets, and you can walk to Itsukushima Shrine's torii gate without a single other tourist in sight. Multiple reviewers on Reddit and TripAdvisor describe this transformation as the most memorable part of their stay — worth more than the room itself.

Is Iwaso Worth the Premium?

The honest answer: it depends on what you value.

Yes if you prioritize heritage, the nighttime island experience, in-room kaiseki dining, and a ryokan that has genuinely operated for 170 years. The combination of the Momijidani setting, the post-ferry tranquility, and the traditional service is difficult to replicate elsewhere.

Maybe not if you expect modern luxury amenities, consistently polished English-language service, or a spa-hotel experience. Iwaso is a traditional ryokan — beautiful but old, with thin walls, compact rooms, and a pace that is deliberate rather than seamless. Some English-language reviewers note that service quality varies, particularly for non-Japanese guests.

For travelers comparing options, see all Miyajima ryokan options for alternatives at different price points, or Azumi Setoda for a modern luxury alternative on a different Seto Inland Sea island.

Getting There and Practical Details

From Hiroshima Station, take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station (approximately 25 minutes), then the ferry to Miyajima Island (10 minutes). From the ferry pier, Iwaso is about a 10-minute walk through the town toward Momijidani Park, or use the ryokan's shuttle service.

• Check-in: 15:00
• Check-out: 10:00
• Dinner: 19:00-21:00 (in-room kaiseki)
• Rates: ¥50,000-120,000 per person with two meals (2025 rates; check official site for current pricing)
• Reservation: Phone or online through the official site; book 3-6 months ahead for autumn
• Last ferry: approximately 21:00 (varies seasonally) — plan to arrive before then