Azumi Setoda: Luxury Stay on Ikuchijima Along the Shimanami Kaido

What Makes Azumi Setoda Different

Azumi Setoda is not a typical luxury hotel. It's a 22-room contemporary ryokan on Ikuchijima island in the Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海), occupying a restored 140-year-old merchant residence on a quiet shopping street that once saw 10,000 visitors a day. The property opened in March 2021 and represents something rare in Japanese hospitality: a high-end inn that genuinely connects guests to its neighborhood rather than sealing them off from it.

The ryokan sits on Shiomachi Shotengai (塩町商店街), a historic market street in the town of Setoda. Across the lane, a public bathhouse called Yubune serves guests and locals alike. The intention is deliberate — Azumi Setoda was designed to draw travelers into the rhythm of island life, not away from it. For broader context on ryokan options in the region, see our Hiroshima ryokan guide and Miyajima ryokan options.

The Restored Merchant Residence

The building's core is Horiuchi-tei (堀内邸), a former salt merchant family residence with over 140 years of history. According to the Azumi Setoda official site, Kyoto-based architect Yoneuura Shirou led the restoration, preserving the original timber framing and spatial flow while adding contemporary elements. Traditional cedar kakine (柵根) fences, originally used for privacy between merchant houses, have been reinterpreted as balcony screens in the guest rooms.

The result is a building that reads as genuinely old in its bones — dark wood beams, narrow corridors, garden courtyards — while offering the comfort and precision of a modern luxury property.

Adrian Zecha and the Azumi Vision

Azumi was co-founded by Adrian Zecha, the founder of Aman Resorts, in partnership with Naru. The design philosophy draws from Zecha's approach at Aman — understated luxury, local materials, minimal visual noise — but applies it to the Japanese ryokan tradition rather than the resort model. The name "Azumi" references an ancient Japanese clan associated with seafaring, fitting for an island property in the Inland Sea.

Rooms: Suites and Duplex Options

Azumi Setoda has 22 rooms: 18 suites and 4 duplex units. All rooms use natural materials — hinoki (Japanese cypress) bathtubs, washi paper, local stone — with a restrained palette that lets the craftsmanship speak for itself. The design avoids the ornate details of traditional ryokan in favor of clean lines and generous space.

The duplex rooms occupy two levels and suit travelers who want more separation between living and sleeping areas. All rooms have views over the garden courtyards or the Setoda streetscape. Futon bedding is available on request alongside Western-style beds.

According to the official site, rates start from approximately ¥80,000 (~$530) per room for two guests, including dinner and breakfast. Prices shown are from 2024; check the official site for current rates. Check-in is at 15:00, check-out at 11:00. Booking through the official site or by phone is recommended, as the property frequently books out during peak periods due to its small size.

Dining: Communal Tables and Setouchi Ingredients

Dining at Azumi Setoda centers on communal tables — a deliberate departure from the traditional ryokan model of in-room dining or private restaurant seating. The format is inspired by the spatial flow of Japanese tea ceremony, creating a shared experience where guests and ingredients are the focus.

The kitchen works with Setouchi (Seto Inland Sea region) ingredients: local fish, citrus from Ikuchijima's famous lemon groves, seasonal vegetables from island farms. The meals are multi-course kaiseki-influenced but presented with the same minimalism that defines the property. Private dining arrangements are available for those who prefer solitude.

Breakfast follows a similar philosophy — Japanese-style with local produce, served communally.

Yubune Bathhouse: The Public-Private Onsen

Directly across the street from the main building, Yubune (湯船, literally "bath boat") is a public bathhouse that doubles as the ryokan's bathing facility. It's one of Azumi Setoda's most distinctive features: rather than building a private onsen (hot spring bath) inside the property, the owners created a bathhouse open to the local community.

Yubune offers lemon-salt baths — fitting for an island that produces some of Japan's finest lemons — along with sauna facilities. For Azumi guests, access is complimentary. Non-guests and local residents can use the facility for ¥800 (~$5.30).

• Hours: 6:00–10:00 and 16:00–24:00 (guest priority)
• Guest access: Included in room rate
• Public admission: ¥800 (~$5.30)

Note that standard Japanese bathing etiquette applies: wash thoroughly before entering the communal bath, and be aware that policies regarding tattoos may apply.

Getting to Azumi Setoda from Onomichi and Hiroshima

Ikuchijima island is accessible by ferry from Onomichi or by car via the Shimanami Kaido bridge road.

By Ferry from Onomichi

The most scenic approach is the high-speed ferry from Onomichi to Setoda Port, which takes approximately 30 minutes. From Setoda Port, Azumi is a short walk along the waterfront into the Shiomachi Shotengai district.

From Hiroshima Station, take JR to Onomichi Station (approximately 1 hour), then transfer to the ferry. The total journey is roughly 1.5–2 hours including transfers. Be aware that the last ferry from Onomichi to Setoda departs around 18:00 — plan your arrival accordingly. For more on staying in the Onomichi area, see our Onomichi ryokan stays guide.

By Car via Shimanami Kaido

Drivers can reach Ikuchijima via the Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道), the scenic highway that crosses six islands between Onomichi on Honshu and Imabari on Shikoku. The drive from Onomichi takes about 40 minutes. Parking is available near the property.

From Hiroshima, allow approximately 2 hours by car via the Sanyo Expressway to Onomichi, then across the Shimanami Kaido.

Combining with Shimanami Kaido Cycling

Azumi Setoda is positioned along one of Japan's most celebrated cycling routes. The Shimanami Kaido connects Onomichi (Honshu) to Imabari (Shikoku) via a series of bridges spanning six islands, with Ikuchijima roughly in the middle. The 60–70 km route is well-marked, mostly flat, and has bike rental stations at both ends.

A popular approach is to rent a bike in Onomichi, ferry to Ikuchijima with the bike, cycle the southern portion of the route, and return to Azumi for the night. Alternatively, cycle the full Shimanami Kaido over two days, staying at Azumi as the midpoint.

The ryokan itself prioritizes tranquility over cycling infrastructure — don't expect a dedicated bike workshop or gear storage on the level of a cycling hotel. But the island setting and the pace of Setoda complement the Shimanami Kaido experience naturally.

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