Things to Do in Onomichi: Temple Walk, Cat Alley & Shimanami Kaido

Why Onomichi: A Retro Port Town on the Seto Inland Sea

Onomichi (尾道) is a hillside port town built on slopes rising from the Seto Inland Sea, about 1 hour 10 minutes east of Hiroshima by JR Sanyo Main Line. While Hiroshima draws visitors for the Peace Memorial and Miyajima, Onomichi offers something entirely different — a tangle of narrow alleys climbing steep hillsides past 25 temples, stray cats sleeping on stone walls, and views of island-dotted water from every high point.

The town feels like pre-war Japan preserved in amber. Wooden houses, steep stone stairways, and a retro shopping arcade create an atmosphere that modern Japanese cities have long since erased. Onomichi is also the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, a 70 km cycling route across seven sea-crossing bridges to Shikoku — one of the world's great cycling experiences.

For travelers exploring Hiroshima Prefecture, Onomichi makes a compelling day trip or overnight stop. For a broader look at the region, see our Hiroshima general guide. If you are also planning Miyajima Island, consider dedicating separate days to each — they are different enough to deserve individual attention.

Temple Walk: 25 Hillside Shrines in 2.5 Kilometers

Key Temples Along the Route

The Temple Walk (寺巡り, Tera Meguri) is a 2.5 km path connecting 25 temples and shrines across Onomichi's hillside. The route climbs from near the station through residential neighborhoods, up stone staircases, and along narrow paths between temple walls — with views of the Seto Inland Sea opening up as you ascend.

Standout temples include:

• Jikoji (持光寺): Famous for the "Nigiri Butsu" (握り仏) experience — you mold a small clay Buddha statue with your hands as a personal good-luck charm. A unique hands-on experience not common at Japanese temples.
• Tenneiji (天寧寺): Known for its distinctive three-story pagoda visible from many points in the city — a frequently photographed Onomichi landmark.
• Senkoji (千光寺): The main temple at the hilltop, surrounded by Senkoji Park with panoramic views, cherry blossoms in spring, and a ropeway for those who prefer not to climb.

The walk is not a single marked trail — it connects temples across the hillside, and you navigate between them using maps and signage. Allow 2-3 hours at a leisurely pace. The route involves stairs and steep sections — wear comfortable shoes.

The Literature Path at Senkoji Park

Near the summit, the Literature Path (文学のこみち, Bungaku no Komichi) winds through Senkoji Park with stones inscribed with poems and passages by famous Japanese authors who lived in or wrote about Onomichi. The path adds a contemplative layer to the hilltop experience.

Senkoji Park and the Ropeway

Senkoji Park sits at the top of the hillside, accessible either by climbing through the Temple Walk or by ropeway from the base. The ropeway ride offers aerial views of the town, the harbor, and the Seto Inland Sea islands.

At the summit, the Senkoji Peak Observatory provides panoramic views — on clear days, the island chain of the Shimanami Kaido is visible stretching toward Shikoku.

A practical approach: take the ropeway up and walk down through the temples. This saves energy for the descent and lets you explore the hillside at a comfortable downhill pace.

Cat Alley: Neko no Hosomichi

Cat Alley (猫の細道, Neko no Hosomichi) is a narrow path near Tenneiji Temple, filled with both real stray cats and hand-carved stone cat statues called Fukuishi Neko (福石猫) — "lucky stone cats" believed to bring good fortune.

The alley blends living cats with artistic installations — painted cats on walls, ceramic cats on fences, and actual cats sleeping in doorways. The charm is in the ambiguity between art and reality. The number of real cats varies by day and weather — mornings tend to be best for cat sightings.

Cat Alley is short (a few minutes to walk) but photogenic. It is located along the Temple Walk route, so you naturally pass through it during the hillside exploration.

Shimanami Kaido: Cycling Toward Shikoku

Cycling the First Bridge: A Half-Day Option

The Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) is a 70 km cycling route from Onomichi to Imabari on Shikoku, crossing seven sea-crossing bridges over the island-dotted Seto Inland Sea. It is regularly ranked among the world's great cycling routes.

The full route takes most cyclists 1-2 days. But you do not need to commit to the entire crossing — cycling to the first island (Mukaishima) and back, or continuing to the second island (Innoshima), makes a satisfying half-day ride with bridge crossings and island scenery.

Bicycle Rental and Logistics

Bicycle rental shops operate near Onomichi Station. Electric-assist bikes are available and recommended if you plan to cycle the hilly sections. Reserve in advance during peak season (spring and autumn). The cycling path is well-marked with blue lines on the road surface.

For the full 70 km route, most cyclists recommend breaking it into 2 days with an overnight stay on one of the islands. Bikes can be dropped off at Imabari on Shikoku — one-way rental is available.

Onomichi Ramen and Local Food

Onomichi ramen (尾道ラーメン) is the local specialty — a soy sauce-based broth topped with pork back fat (背脂, seabura) that melts into the soup, creating a rich, layered flavor distinct from tonkotsu or miso styles. The back fat floats on the surface in small white droplets.

Multiple ramen shops line the shopping arcade near the station. The competing shops each have their own variation — some richer, some lighter — but the soy sauce base and back fat topping are constants.

Beyond ramen, the shopping arcade (商店街) itself is worth exploring. It is a classic covered Showa-era shopping street with small cafes, vintage shops, and local food stalls. The retro atmosphere here complements the hillside temples above — together, they create the complete Onomichi experience.

Getting to Onomichi from Hiroshima

Take the JR Sanyo Main Line from Hiroshima Station to Onomichi Station — approximately 1 hour 10 minutes. Trains run frequently throughout the day. The JR Pass covers this route.

From Onomichi Station, most attractions are walkable:

Destination	From Station	How
Shopping arcade	1 min	Walk east along the waterfront
Temple Walk start	10-15 min	Walk uphill from station area
Senkoji Ropeway	15 min	Walk through town to base station
Cat Alley	20 min	Uphill through temple area
Shimanami Kaido start	5 min	Ferry to Mukaishima from station area

For a day trip from Hiroshima, an early start (departing Hiroshima by 8:00-9:00) gives you a full day. See our Hiroshima day trip itinerary for how to structure your time in the region.