Urabandai: Fukushima's Colored Lakes and Mountain Plateau Guide
Why Urabandai: Volcanic Lakes Born From Eruption
On July 15, 1888, the peak of Mount Bandai (磐梯山, 1,816 meters) collapsed in a massive phreatic explosion — a steam-driven eruption that sent approximately 1.5 cubic kilometers of rock and debris cascading down the mountain's northern slope. According to Japanese Wikipedia's eruption record, the debris dammed rivers and streams across the plateau, creating over 300 lakes and ponds where none had existed before.
Urabandai (裏磐梯, literally "behind Bandai") is the area that emerged from this destruction — a volcanic plateau of forests, marshes, and multicolored lakes that has become one of Fukushima Prefecture's most striking natural landscapes. The most famous of these lakes are the Goshikinuma (五色沼, Five Colored Lakes), a chain of approximately 12 marsh lakes whose water shifts between cobalt blue, emerald green, turquoise, and reddish-brown depending on dissolved minerals, algae, and the angle of sunlight.
For nature-focused travelers exploring Tohoku, Urabandai offers a volcanic landscape unlike anything else in the region — dramatic, photogenic, and accessible on a moderate walking trail.
Goshikinuma Nature Trail: The Five Colored Lakes Walk
Trail Details and What You'll See
The Goshikinuma Nature Trail (五色沼自然探勝路) is the main attraction in Urabandai. According to the Urabandai Tourism Association, the trail stretches approximately 3.6 km through forest, connecting the major colored lakes along a mostly flat boardwalk path. Walking time is 70-90 minutes at a comfortable pace with photo stops.
The trail is free to enter and open from April 20 through November 10, with hours from 7:00 to 16:30 (last entry 16:00). According to the Goshikinuma official site, the trail closes from approximately November 11 through April 19 due to heavy snowfall.
Each lake along the trail has a different mineral composition, giving it a distinct color. The most striking are the cobalt blue and emerald green lakes, where the water appears almost impossibly vivid — especially on clear mornings when sunlight penetrates the surface. The colors are not static; they shift with the seasons, weather, and time of day as mineral concentrations and algae blooms change.
The boardwalk protects a fragile volcanic ecosystem. Stay on the marked path — this is not a place to wade or wander off-trail. The preservation effort is what keeps the lakes and surrounding vegetation intact.
Photography Tips and Best Light
Early morning (before 9:00 AM) offers the best conditions: fewer visitors, calmer water surfaces for reflections, and softer light that brings out the mineral colors. Overcast days can mute the colors, while direct midday sun creates glare on the water surface.
Bring a polarizing filter if you are serious about photography — it cuts through surface reflections and intensifies the lake colors. The trail runs roughly east-west, so morning light enters from behind when walking from the eastern trailhead.
Visitors on TripAdvisor and Reddit consistently recommend sturdy shoes — the boardwalk is uneven in sections and can be slippery when wet. The trail is manageable for all fitness levels, but flip-flops or dress shoes are a bad idea.
Lake Hibara and the Wider Urabandai Plateau
Beyond the Goshikinuma trail, the Urabandai plateau includes Lake Hibara (桧原湖) — the largest lake in the area and the main hub for accommodation, boating, and fishing. Lake Hibara was also formed by the 1888 eruption's debris dam and sits at the center of the plateau.
The lake area is quieter than the Goshikinuma trail and offers a different pace: canoeing, fishing, and lakeside walks through forests that were not here before the eruption created them. In autumn, the surrounding hillsides turn gold and red, with the lake reflecting the foliage.
For visitors staying overnight, Lake Hibara is the most practical base — ryokan, pensions, and small hotels line the lakeshore, and the Goshikinuma trailhead is a short drive or bus ride away.
When to Visit: Seasons and Color Changes
| Season | Lake Colors | Landscape | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (late Apr-May) | Fresh green-blue, less mineral intensity | New green forest growth | Trail opens April 20 |
| Summer (Jun-Aug) | Vivid blues and greens at peak | Full canopy, lush forests | Hot and humid; morning visits best |
| Autumn (Oct-Nov) | Deep blues against red-gold foliage | Peak foliage mid-October | Best season for photography |
| Winter (Dec-Mar) | Snow-covered, mystical atmosphere | Snowy plateau | Trail closed; viewpoints only |
Mid-October is the standout time to visit. The combination of autumn foliage reflected in the colored lake water — red maples over cobalt blue, golden birch over emerald green — creates scenes that are among the most photogenic in all of Tohoku. The foliage peaks earlier here than in coastal Tohoku due to the plateau's elevation.
Summer is the most accessible season with the longest daylight hours, but morning visits are essential to avoid midday heat and the muddiest light conditions.
Getting to Urabandai from Tokyo and Koriyama
By Train and Bus
The standard route from Tokyo:
- Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station — approximately 80 minutes
- JR Banetsu West Line from Koriyama to Inawashiro or Bandai-Kogen area — approximately 40 minutes
- Bandai Kogen Bus to Goshikinuma trailhead — approximately 10-40 minutes depending on route
Alternatively, from Aizu-Wakamatsu (a historic castle town worth combining with Urabandai), buses run to the area in approximately 60 minutes.
Bus schedules in the Urabandai area are limited and vary by season — some routes may not operate in winter. Check the Urabandai Tourism Association for current timetables before your trip.
By Car
Driving is the most flexible option. From the Tohoku Expressway, take the Inawashiro-Bandai Kogen IC exit — the Goshikinuma parking area is approximately 20 minutes from the interchange. Parking is available near the trailhead (paid).
From Tokyo, the total drive takes approximately 3-3.5 hours via the Tohoku Expressway. Winter driving requires snow tires and chains, as the plateau receives heavy snowfall.
Where to Stay: Lake Hibara Accommodation
Lake Hibara is the primary accommodation zone for Urabandai visitors. Options range from traditional ryokan with onsen baths to Western-style pensions and small hotels. The lakeside setting means many properties offer views of the water and surrounding mountains.
Staying overnight allows you to hit the Goshikinuma trail at opening time (7:00 AM) when the light is best and the crowds have not yet arrived. For visitors coming from Tokyo, the travel time makes a day trip possible but tight — an overnight stay is more rewarding.
Booking platforms like Jalan.net and Rakuten Travel offer a good selection of Urabandai properties. During the autumn foliage peak (mid-October), accommodation fills quickly — book at least 2-3 weeks ahead.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I get to Urabandai from Tokyo?
- Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Koriyama (about 80 minutes), then the JR Banetsu West Line to the Bandai-Kogen area (about 40 minutes), then a bus to the Goshikinuma trailhead (10-40 minutes). Alternatively, drive from Inawashiro-Bandai Kogen IC on the Tohoku Expressway — about 20 minutes to the lakes. Total travel time from Tokyo is approximately 3 hours by either route.
- Is the Goshikinuma trail difficult?
- No. The trail is a 3.6 km boardwalk path taking 70-90 minutes, suitable for all fitness levels. The path is mostly flat with some uneven sections. Wear sturdy shoes as the boardwalk can be slippery when wet. Stay on the marked path to protect the fragile volcanic ecosystem.
- When is the best time to see fall colors at Urabandai?
- Mid-October is peak foliage season. The combination of red and gold maple leaves reflected in the mineral-colored lake water creates the area's most photogenic scenes. Visit in the morning for the best light and fewer crowds. The trail is open April 20 through November 10.
- Can I stay overnight near the Five Colored Lakes?
- Yes. Lake Hibara (桧原湖) has ryokan, pensions, and hotels along its shore, within a short drive or bus ride of the Goshikinuma trail. Staying overnight lets you reach the trail at opening time (7:00 AM) for the best conditions. Book ahead for mid-October foliage season.
- Is the trail open in winter?
- The Goshikinuma Nature Trail is closed from approximately November 11 to April 19 due to heavy snowfall. Winter visitors can still see the lakes from certain viewpoints, and the snow-covered plateau offers a different, more mystical atmosphere. Access may require a car with snow tires.