Ozu Castle Town Guide: Cormorant Fishing & Edo-Era Riverside Streets

What Makes Ozu Worth Visiting

Ozu (大洲) is a compact castle town on the Hijikawa River in western Ehime Prefecture, roughly 40 minutes from Matsuyama by limited express train. While most travelers to Shikoku focus on Matsuyama's Dogo Onsen or the Shimanami Kaido, Ozu offers something different — a preserved Edo-era riverside town where you can tour a rare wooden castle reconstruction, watch 1,300-year-old cormorant fishing from a boat, and walk atmospheric merchant streets that feel genuinely untouched by mass tourism.

Ozu makes a strong half-day or full-day trip from Matsuyama, and pairs well with nearby Uchiko for a full day of historic Ehime towns. For an overview of what Ehime's towns offer, see our Ehime city guide hub.

Ozu Castle: Japan's Rare Wooden Reconstruction

Ozu Castle (大洲城) sits on a hilltop overlooking the Hijikawa River, originally built in the early 1300s and expanded by successive lords through the Edo period. The four-story main keep was reconstructed in 2004 using traditional wooden joinery — no steel reinforcement — making it one of very few modern castle reconstructions in Japan built with historical materials and techniques.

According to the Ozu Castle official site, the castle is open daily from 9:00 to 17:00 (last entry 16:30). Admission is ¥520 (~$3.50) for adults and ¥250 (~$1.70) for children.

Inside the Keep: Samurai Armor and River Views

The castle interior displays samurai armor and historical materials from successive castle lords. The top floor provides panoramic views of the Hijikawa River winding through the town — one of the best vantage points in Ozu and worth the climb up the steep wooden staircases. Allow about 30-45 minutes for the full visit.

The Castle Stay Experience

Ozu Castle offers an overnight stay experience where guests sleep inside the castle keep, complete with feudal lord reenactments and period costumes. However, this experience is currently available only for private group bookings and may not be accessible to individual travelers. Check with the Ozu tourism office for current availability before planning around this.

Cormorant Fishing on the Hijikawa River

Ozu's Hijikawa River is considered one of Japan's top three rivers for traditional cormorant fishing (ukai / 鵜飼). Master fishermen guide trained cormorants to catch sweetfish (ayu) under the glow of pine-torch lanterns — a practice stretching back over 1,300 years. The Hijikawa River's ukai is less famous than Gifu's but more intimate, with smaller boats and fewer crowds.

What to Expect on a Ukai Boat

Spectators ride in flat-bottomed wooden boats alongside the fishing boats, watching the cormorants dive and surface with fish. The atmosphere — firelight reflecting off the dark river, the calls of the fishermen — is genuinely atmospheric. Boats depart at 18:30, and the experience runs about two hours. Many visitors recommend bringing insect repellent for summer evenings on the river.

Season, Booking, and Prices

According to the Ozu Ukai official site, cormorant fishing runs from May 11 to October 15 (dates shown are from 2025; check for current season). Boats operate 18:30-20:30 and may be cancelled in bad weather.

Ticket	Price
Adult boat ride	¥2,800 (~$19)
Elementary school child	¥1,800 (~$12)

Advance booking is recommended, especially for weekends and summer holidays.

Garyu Sanso Villa and the Riverside Walk

Garyu Sanso (臥龍山荘) is a Meiji-era villa perched above the Hijikawa River, featuring traditional Japanese gardens and a teahouse with direct river views. The villa was built as a retreat by a wealthy merchant and showcases refined craftsmanship in its timber construction and garden design. Many visitors combine it with the castle for a morning of Ozu's top two attractions.

Garyu Sanso is open 9:00-17:00, closed Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a holiday). Admission is ¥300 (~$2) for adults, ¥150 (~$1) for students. The walk between the castle and the villa follows the river and takes about 15 minutes, passing through some of Ozu's most scenic streets.

Walking Ozu's Historic Streets

Ozu's old town is spread along the Hijikawa River, with preserved merchant houses, whitewashed storehouses, and narrow lanes. The town is walkable but more spread out than it looks — allow 4-6 hours if you want to cover the castle, Garyu Sanso, and the historic streets at a comfortable pace. Some streets involve hills, so wear comfortable shoes.

Pokopen Yokocho Retro Alley

Pokopen Yokocho (ポコペン横町) is a retro alley lined with wooden stalls selling local crafts, snacks, and nostalgic toys. The atmosphere evokes mid-20th-century Japan, and the alley is free to walk through. It's a good spot to pick up local souvenirs and try regional sweets between the larger attractions.

Tsumugibito Storyteller Tours

Local guides called Tsumugibito (紡ぎ人, literally "spinners of stories") offer guided walks through Ozu's historic districts, sharing the preservation efforts and hidden history behind the town's buildings. These tours provide context you won't get from signage alone. Ask at the tourism office near the station for availability.

Getting to Ozu from Matsuyama

Ozu is a straightforward day trip from Matsuyama. For detailed travel logistics and accommodation options, see our Ozu travel guide.

Route	Duration	Notes
JR Matsuyama → JR Ozu (Uwakai limited express)	~40 min	¥1,500-2,000 depending on seat type
By car from Matsuyama IC	~1 hour	Via Route 56

From JR Ozu Station, the castle town area is a 20-30 minute walk, or a 5-minute ride on the community bus (¥200). The walk is manageable but involves some hills — consider the bus if carrying luggage.

Ozu pairs naturally with Uchiko's preserved merchant district, which is 20-30 minutes further on the same JR line. A common itinerary is morning in one town, afternoon in the other, returning to Matsuyama by evening.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to see cormorant fishing in Ozu?

Ukai runs from mid-May to mid-October on the Hijikawa River, with boats departing at 18:30. Book in advance for weekends and holidays. Summer evenings (July-August) offer the most atmospheric experience with warm nights and firelit river reflections, but bring insect repellent.

How much does it cost to visit Ozu's main attractions?

Ozu Castle is ¥520 (~$3.50) for adults, Garyu Sanso Villa is ¥300 (~$2), and the ukai cormorant fishing boat ride is ¥2,800 (~$19) per adult. Walking the historic streets and browsing Pokopen Yokocho retro alley is free.

Can I visit Ozu and Uchiko in one day from Matsuyama?

Yes. Matsuyama to Ozu is about 40 minutes by JR limited express, and Uchiko is 20-30 minutes further on the same line. Spend the morning in one town and the afternoon in the other, then return to Matsuyama by evening. Allow at least 3-4 hours per town to see the main sights comfortably.

Is Ozu walkable from the train station?

The castle town is a 20-30 minute walk from JR Ozu Station, or a 5-minute ride on the community bus (¥200). The town itself is walkable but more spread out than expected, with some hilly streets. Wear comfortable shoes and allow 4-6 hours for a full visit.